This is where I open up the tank to take the negative strip off the reel, and hang it up on clips. Once the chemistry has reached the appropriate temps, go ahead and dive right into developing but - this is important - STOP SHORT OF THE STABILIZING / WETTING AGENT STEP! NOTE: I continue to use the strainer when pouring chemicals in and out of their bottles, just in case new particles work themselves loose.Don’t ever leave the tank dry for too long! This is important as you don’t want any possible floating particles to embed itself on the emulsion side. If, by this time, the chemistry still hasn’t reached the proper temps, keep the film soaked in warm water.Repeat until the water you are dumping out is clear - no discoloration or suds whatsoever. I usually vigorously shake for 20 seconds or so, dump the water, then refill from running warm tap water (~100F). This is where you start shaking and rinsing the film in the tank for the next 3 minutes or so. At the 7 minute mark (from above), the chemistry temps should still be climbing.Drop a thermometer in the developer bottle so that you can monitor it’s progress up to 102F (for C41 chemistry) or 106F (for ECN2 chemistry).Don’t forget to partially open the lids to prevent pressure build up. and place them into that once boiled pot I told you to prepare at the top of the previous section. Take the bottles of your developer, bleach, fix, stopper, etc.Set a timer and let this soak for 7 minutes.This is to prevent unwanted solids entering the bath and embedding themselves into the emulsion side of the film. I pass it through a fine wire mesh medical strainer, but a coffee filter should work fine. Pour out the pre-soak bath from the tank and pour in the alkaline pre-bath.I deduced this recipe from what I read on Kodak’s published ECN-2 document (easily found on the web). If you have these steps reversed, the baking soda will clump and become harder to dissolve.
Mix in four heaped teaspoons of washing soda and two teaspoons of baking soda in that specific order and stir until fully dissolved.Take 500mL of water and heat up to about 140F.Pre-soak the film in ~100F water for as long as it takes you to mix up the alkaline pre-bath as follows:.Bring a large, half-filled pot of water to the boil and then turn off your stove.Preparation – Pre-soak and alkaline pre-bath For 35mm film, most bulk loaders have a maximum capacity of 100ft, so you’ll have to find a way to break up the larger reels into workable lengths. You can find offerings out there from 100ft, 400ft, to up to 1000ft reels.
C41 film movie#
If you’re like me and want to roll your own, the first thing will be for you to order yourself up a massive roll of movie film stock in whatever format size you want. You can buy bulk loaded movie file in 35mm format from various dark corners of the Internet. Preparing the film Kodak 50D (5203) – ECN2 homebrew developer – A Leaf
C41 film how to#
NOTE: If you want to be a big boy, see EMULSIVE’s latest article on how to bulk roll 120/220 film here!!! Once you wrap your head around that, the following steps are the same.
Other than that, be warned: there isn’t a large amount of new information to be had here, but you will hopefully get an insight into my thought process as I walk you through my steps. NOTE: You have to realize, that if I can do this, then pretty much anyone else can do it - probably even better. It is dealing with this layer in development that puts off most people from developing motion picture film stock at home, but really, it isn’t that bad. This remjet layer exists primarily for two reasons I am aware of - combating anti-static discharge as the film passes through the cinema camera at speed, and preventing halation effects. Most color motion picture stocks have a protective layer called remjet. It isn’t very different from developing other color films at home except for the removal of a layer of material on the film. Spurred on by the “encouragement” of EMULSIVE, I have finally written up my version of how to develop movie film stock at home. Developing motion picture film in your own darkroom - EMULSIVE Close Search for:īusting myths and soon to be busting out of EMULSIVE HQ, it’s over to Diz for his how-to.ĭeveloping motion picture film in your own darkroom Kodak 50D (5203) – C41 cross process bleach bypass – Red Red Red
0 kommentar(er)
